美麗與哀愁
by 刁卿蕙
 刁觀點
June 05, 2009 10:55 AM | 1673 觀看次數 | 21 21 評論 | 11 11 評論推薦: | 電郵給朋友 | 打印 | 文章連結

說好去清萊的長頸族村落不拍照的。甫遊完泰國中部,回台數日後,再赴泰北,主要是想看看美斯樂的現況;對於參觀少數民族村落的行程安排,有些抗拒。經常看到脖子套上銅圈的長頸族照片,只覺慘不忍睹。惟恐掄起相機,將鏡頭對準這群不幸女子時,自己也就淪為助長不人道惡俗的獵奇觀光客了。

七年前M曾獨自來過此地, ,他沒拍照。知道這群人過得比美斯樂孤軍還艱困無望,行前準備了很多東西以及Hello Kitty文具,只能藉此聊表心意了。小小的村落,狹窄的泥地兩旁擺了大同小異的攤位。守在攤前的,全是女子。靠近村口的,多是年紀較長的大耳族婦女,看到遊客,會很大方地扯開笨重耳飾,微笑著對鏡頭展示那駭人的大耳洞。愈往下走愈驚心。M很凝重地說,套上頸圈的女孩多了,年紀明顯下降。這已是泰北觀光重點,村民的維生之道。

女子的脖子越長就越美越高貴是這個部落的傳統審美觀。據傳,有個村落飽受老虎侵擾,族人中受害最深,被咬喉斃命的常是女子。於是,一名同時也是巫師的領袖,得到神靈指示,下令族中所有女子在脖子上圍戴銅環,免遭虎吻。那隻習慣咬人脖子的老虎,想必因此不知要從何下口咬起,就困惑得打了退堂鼓,從此不再作禍了吧?更貼近人性心理的說法,應是西蒙波娃式的:這是父權社會對第二性的控制手段,極端一如中國舊社會女子的纏足,一如至今仍在某些國家繼續施行的女子割禮……。戴了項圈的妳,纏了足的妳,割了陰蒂縫了陰戶的妳,從此不能引吭放歌,不能奔跑原野,不能盡興官能,乖乖地,認份地,了盡殘身奉獻,為了男性族人的集體利益,為了血胤純淨。

給了村裡看得到的女孩,一人一份小禮物,給的時候,避開了其他遊客。有些人對我們的舉動可能會有點意見,是故作施捨姿態,以示高人一等嗎?是在提醒同是遊客的自己疏忽或吝於付出?旅行多年,跟了不少團,知道我們給東西時,常會引來某些人異樣的眼光及奇怪的後續反應。所以,必須背著做。給的時候,忍不住問了女孩們幾個相同的問題「妳幾歲?」「識字嗎?」「喜歡戴項圈嗎?」她們多只是微笑不答。有個女孩見我趨近,用手蓋上了一本滿是泰文的薄冊,像是教科書;她微弱地用英文回答「十一歲」。一個塗著厚妝的十七歲少女,難得地正視我的眼睛,以細細的嗓音回答「不喜歡」,她手上握著一本英文筆記。

有誰會喜歡從六、七歲開始,抵住下顎,在脖子上緊匝粗銅環?有誰願意每隔一段時間,必須層層加疊厚重金屬異物,強制自然發育,壓迫肩胛骨,好讓脖子顯得細長,一直到二十歲或出嫁了,才停止?戴上了,就得戴一輩子,一旦取下,就有生命危險,脖子可能隨時扭斷。她們不能仰睡,不能轉頭。是不是因吞嚥食物不易,使她們身材多瘦削?是不是因喉管變形,以致她們發聲困難只能壓低音量?是不是因為連說話也難受,所以她們寧可保持沉默?會有誰喜歡?我的第三個問題,很殘忍。

難得看到一個抱著嬰孩的男人守著攤位。旁邊的女子,帶了個約五、六歲的小女孩,顯然是他的妻女,都纏了拋光的頸圈。M送了男子較多的禮物及日用品,見到有其他遊客走近了,趕忙抓了椅旁的一塊布蓋上,男子意會地笑了,也因M顧及了他是養家男人的自尊,這是禮物,不是施捨。他抱的嬰兒太可愛,搔搔他的小腳,就會咯咯笑,圓實的小趾匿著些黑,裹的麻布襁褓沾了些泥,一個土生土長,原汁原味的健康男孩。見我喜歡,男子慷慨地把他往我懷裡塞。說好不拍照的,可是他沒纏頸啊,M只好拿出相機依我。按快門時,一旁的小女孩突然主動跑來,並做了個V字手勢,長頸族的女孩意外入鏡了。

臨走前回到那個全村最美麗的小女孩身邊。她仍是端坐不動,挺著被一圈圈金黃色銅環拉長的脖子,靜靜地抿著唇微笑,散發一股奇異的優雅。忍不住摟著她拍了張照。一來就注意到她,她被擺放在最顯眼的攤子旁,攤子上還有她個人的明信片,本人比畫冊還美。清秀的眉,濃密的睫下,有一對漾著水光,黝黝的瞳。她的頭不能轉,只有在左右轉目時,才透露了一點在她這個年齡該有的好奇童心。當她每回定住眼往前直視時,就會習慣地抿著唇做個微笑。拍了照,我抱住了她,在她額上輕輕一吻,她又報以同樣微笑,這種笑,讓我心疼。

評論 (21)
« 匿名 張貼於 Saturday, Jun 20 at 09:46 AM »
Try Bun Bo Hue and lemongrass shrimp....
« Tiao in Hue, Vietnam 張貼於 Saturday, Jun 20 at 03:26 AM »
每個人脖子上都掛著愛恨貪嗔痴慢(驕傲)的枷鎖,時感折磨痛苦,時又得意洋洋,因為那些名利頸環可都是黃金珠寶哪!
« 匿名 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 18 at 07:23 AM »
ring around the collar. time for a wash.
« SANSan 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 18 at 07:10 AM »
Gobbledygook?

Message intended for the Limited few.

Too bad if missed out.

« SANsan 張貼於 Tuesday, Jun 16 at 06:09 PM »
Noblese oblige, much ado?

Providential escape,

or,epicurean degage, not seclusive hermit.

Free spirit ,from the yoke on ur hump,

or, rings on ur neck,

to breathe the real life.

Salute.

« 匿名 張貼於 Tuesday, Jun 16 at 12:15 AM »
You are like erotic asphyxiation cutting off oxygen supply to the brain for pleasure.
« jariel 張貼於 Monday, Jun 15 at 06:01 PM »
Don't ask me, I was and still am totally against those bail outs.

I disapprove the way that people use government as a charity entity, taking money from person A(tax payers) and give it to person B...ie; long term welfare recipients, or GM, or AIG...etc.etc.

« 匿名 張貼於 Saturday, Jun 13 at 05:15 AM »
I like women painting their faces.

Ms Diao looks like a godess.....with make ups.

« jariel 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 04:00 PM »
>>We wish that you are a women<<

First of all, please say...."I".

you don't "訴諸大眾" to back up what you are saying. Is that the tactic you use to rouse public sentiment against the other side? I see.

As regard to the rest of your post...

----------------------------------------------

I wish I don't need to work so darn hard so me' wify can stay home and shop with me' credit cards all day long. I wish some woman can work so I can stay home and shop all day long for a change.

-----------------------------------------------

How is that for I wish? lol.

Kidding aside, clearly what you wish is not gonna happen. I understand your sentiment when witnessing the barbaric treatment to women...I don't deny it is barbaric and cruel. However, culture is culture, it is almost the same way when pilgrem first set foot onto America and witnessed some of the things Indians did.

All I am saying is...change will come in time, especially, when those women feel "enough is enough!"

« jariel 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 03:41 PM »
>>Trouble maker Jariel is coming...<<

The trouble is, you can't say worth a damn.

The troubles is, regardless the name calling, you still have nothing of substance to say.

The trouble is, actually...you aren't worth my trouble.

« Don/t create Trouble 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 12:19 PM »
Trouble maker Jariel is coming...
« J. ERR 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 12:18 PM »
Some women wearing hi heels might torture themselves.

Some men wearing suite (xi zhuang) might torture themselves, too.

« 匿名 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 12:14 PM »
Jariel:

We wish that you are a women who must wear bronze collar since childhood. who must bind feet, who must die with the death of a emperor, who must ciltoris.

...who

« 裁判 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 10:45 AM »
[We didn't judge. We just presented simple facts.]

« 匿名 張貼於 Wednesday, Jun 10 at 07:13 PM »

"Yes and yes...It is so cruel to women."

another

« 匿名 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 11 at 09:26 PM »

"These behaviors are brutal, superstitious and unjustified, unfair to women..."

Either the « 匿名 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 06:44 AM » is blind or can not read very well! Therefore I find you in contempt and guilty of "posting without proper facts!"

Jariel, you may continue please.

« 匿名 張貼於 Friday, Jun 12 at 06:44 AM »
We didn't judge. We just presented simple facts. You're the one who is judging. You idiot...
« jariel 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 11 at 09:57 PM »
Of course, the idiot that I am, I somehow managed to forget to log in again...

So once again;

To all those who are in such a hurry to condemn, next time when a woman puts on make up, high heels pierce her ears...etc etc...think about what you said here.

You people are making a value and moral judgement based on western cultures and morals which themselves are often bias and prejudice.

We don't have to agree with their culture, and as offensive as it may be to us, however, it is up to their women to decide when enough is enough.

« 匿名 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 11 at 09:54 PM »
To all those who are in such a hurry to condemn, next time when a woman puts on make up, high heels pierce her ears...etc etc...think about what you said here.

You people are making a value and moral judgement based on western cultures and morals which themselves are often bias and prejudice.

We don't have to agree with their culture, and as offensive as it may be to us, however, it is up to their women to decide when enough is enough.

« 匿名 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 11 at 09:26 PM »
These behaviors are brutal, superstitious and unjustified, unfair to women. They should be abolished in civilized societies.

Shame on the people who initiate these follies to torture women.

« 匿名 張貼於 Thursday, Jun 11 at 11:40 AM »
Young muslim women have their clitoris cut out.
« 匿名 張貼於 Wednesday, Jun 10 at 07:13 PM »
Just like Chinese women binding their feet.

Yes and yes...It is so cruel to women.

Some of the women in royal courts must die with the death of Emperors in ancient China.

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